Super bulky weight yarn – main color, stripe color, wing color
25mm safety eyes or 1” felt eyes
Polyfil
Yarn needle
Scissors
Stitch marker
Notes/Tips:
I do not offer video tutorials. If you are unfamiliar with a particular stitch in the pattern, You-Tube is a great resource to find stitch tutorials.
Finished bee is approximately 5” round.
Your tension and choice in yarn can change your final size.
Numbers in ( )’s are stitch counts and the total number of rounds needed for the round being worked.
When working the MC – it can be tricky to pull the tail end tight. I suggest crocheting loosely and only working 4-5 STS into the MC and starting to pull the tail tighter and working your remaining STS, then pull the tail snug as needed. Don’t forget to weave in the tail to secure.
When stuffing your bees, you’ll want to shape them at the same time to achieve the round “ball” shape.
When working decrease stitches; I always use an “invisible” decrease. I recommend the invisible decrease method for a cleaner finished look. If you are unfamiliar, there are great tutorials on you-tube to learn.
You will work in continuous rounds for a seamless product, and may want to mark the first ST of each round with a ST marker.
I do not cut off my yarn when changing colors. Once both sections for the stripes are complete, I tie the beginning and end tails together.
Let’s get started!
BODY
Round 1:
MAIN COLOR
MC
9 SC
Round 2:
INC x 9 (18)
Round 3:
(SC, INC) x 9 (27)
Round 4:
(2 SC, INC) x 9 (36)
Round 5: SC in each ST around (36)
Note: if you are using safety eyes insert your eyes between round 3-4 or 4-5 with 8-9 STS between, this is all based on your own preference! Before placing eyes, make sure your beginning ST is centered at the top or bottom of the bee so that your color changes will be hidden by the wings or be the bottom of your bee.
Round 6-7:
Switch to stripe color
SC in each ST around (36)
Round 8-9:
Switch to body color
SC in each ST around (36)
Round 10-11:
Switch to stripe color
SC in each ST around (36)
Round 12-13:
Switch to body color
SC in each ST around (36)
Cut off stripe color yarn and tie the tail ends together to secure.
Round 14:
(2 SC, DEC) x 9 (27)
Round 15:
(SC, DEC) x 9 (18)
Round 16:
DEC x 9 (9)
Leave a few inch tail and fasten off. Use the tail to weave through the remaining 9 STS and cinch closed, secure the tail and hide inside.
WINGS
Round 1:
MC
6 SC
Round 2:
INC x 6 (12)
Round 3:
(HDC, HDC INC) x 6 (18)
Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off. If you haven’t already, weave in the beginning tail from the start of the MC. Using the long tail end sew each wing to the bee body; I like to sew my wings where the strip color changes are, this will help to hide the color jog a bit. This is all based on preference and you can position the color changes to the bottom of the bee if you wish.
If you’re using felt eyes, make sure to use your wings as a center point and glue them onto your bee in the position you best like, by placing the eyes further apart or closer together you can change the bee’s expression – making each bee unique!
I can’t wait to see all of your adorable bees!! Please be sure to tag me in your finished photos, I love seeing what you all create 🥰
Learn how to make the ‘Mini Winter Braid Stocking’ using Sheepish Stitches’ crochet pattern!
Learn how to make this adorable mini Christmas stocking by following this simple, free crochet pattern by Sheepish Stitches. The perfect pattern for gift giving or adding to your holiday decor!
Every year I see makers stressing that they haven’t started their Christmas gifts/makes yet and the “deadline” is approaching. To help with the maker stress, I’m releasing this adorable Mini Winter Braid Stocking crochet pattern with plenty of time to get a jump on this holiday season!
These stockings are adorable in a variety of colors and they work up SO quickly, making them great for gift giving too! Think about the hard to shop for person on your list, a secret Santa exchange, or if you need a few easy co-worker gifts! Add a gift card for a cup of coffee, their favorite dinner, or a store you know they love to shop. These mini stockings would also be great with some thoughtful tasty treats like hard candies or some chocolates.
You can also download the PDF’s for my full size version of the Winter Braid Stocking as well as this mini size at SheepishStitches.com. You will find the PDF files have more photos for step by step visuals on parts you may need to see along with the written directions.
You will work in the round until told to join. This keeps from having a seam in the toe to make the stocking reversible.
You will not turn the stocking after rounds unless told to turn.
CH 2 beginning the puff rounds will count as a HDC
Be sure to read directions carefully. If it doesn’t say to CH after a stitch – DO NOT chain!
Be sure to work the very first ST where the CH comes out of as well as the very last stitch right next to the CH. If your stitch counts come up short be sure to check you have worked ALL stitches.
Weave in ends as you work, this way you won’t have to turn your stocking inside out at the end of the project.
You will find two different cuff options at the end of the pattern, choose one method you wish to complete the stocking!
Faux fur trim: use a ST marker and make sure to count your fur stitches in each round – keep 30! Otherwise your stocking top may push outward or inward from the miscount.
Puff ST – *yarn over, insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop*. Repeat * two more times. Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on the hook.SC 3 tog – insert hook into the first stitch and pull up a loop, insert hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop, insert hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on the hook. You’ve now made 3 stitches into 1.
Round 1:
Make a magic circle
10 HDC into circle (10)
Round 2:
HDC INC in each ST around (20)
Round 3:
[HDC, INC] x 10 (30)
Round 4:
HDC in each ST around
SL ST to join (30)
** at this point my stocking measures about 3.25” across **
Round 5:
CH 1
SC 3rd loop in the same ST and every ST around
SL ST to join (30)
Round 6:
CH 2
Working in the ST to the right of the CH 2:
puff ST
*Working to the left as normal: SK 1 ST
HDC in the next ST
Working back into the SKD ST: puff ST*
Repeat * around
SL ST to the first HDC (15 puffs)
Round 7:
Turn and CH 2
Working in the ST to the right of the CH 2:
puff ST
*Working to the left as normal: SK 1 ST
HDC in the next ST
Working back into the SKD ST: puff ST*
Repeat * around
SL ST to the first HDC (15 puffs)
Round 8:
Turn and CH 1
HDC in each ST around (30)
Round 9:
CH 1
SC 3rd loop in the same ST and every ST around
SL ST to join (30)
HEEL:
Row 1:
CH 1
HDC in the same ST and the next 9 STS (10)
Row 2:
Turn your work and CH 1
HDC DEC
6 HDC
HDC DEC (8)
Row 3:
Turn and CH 1
HDC DEC
4 HDC
HDC DEC (6)
Row 4:
Turn and CH 1
HDC INC
4 HDC
HDC INC (8)
Row 5:
Turn and CH 1
HDC INC
6 HDC
HDC INC (10)
CLOSING THE HEEL
Fold the top portion of the heel back and down over the bottom portion of the heel – so the right sides of the work are facing each other on the inside.
Place your hook on your working side of the project and pull the loop from the other side of the heel through. CH 1 and SC the side of the heel together; making sure to go through both portions of the heel, so it’s closed. I used 3 SC across this side. Tie off.
Attach your yarn into the top corner of the second side of your heel, right by the fold. And SC from the fold down toward the stocking to close this side of the heel. Using 3 SC on this side as well.
Keeping your yarn attached; unfold the heel so the right side is now facing out.
Make sure the toe of your stocking is pointing to the right and you’re ready to continue working in the correct direction to continue round 10:
Round 10:
SC in the next 8 STS
Now you’re near the end of the heel, you will have to create spaces but you will now SC 3 tog to bring the heel together (As shown in photo )
*SK the next ST and HDC into the next
Working back into the SKD ST: puff ST*
Repeat * 9 more times
SC 3 tog to close the heel
SL ST to join (30)
Round 11:
Turn and CH 2
Working in the ST to the right of the CH 2:
puff ST
*Working to the left as normal: SK 1 ST
HDC in the next ST
Working back into the SKD ST: puff ST*
Repeat * around
SL ST to the first HDC (15 puffs)
Round 12:
Turn and CH 1
HDC in each ST around (30)
Round 13:
CH 1
SC 3rd loop in the same ST and every ST around
SL ST to join (30)
Round 14:
CH 2
Working in the ST to the right of the CH 2:
puff ST
*Working to the left as normal: SK 1 ST
HDC in the next ST
Working back into the SKD ST: puff ST*
Repeat * around
SL ST to the first HDC (15 puffs)
Round 15:
Turn and CH 2
Working in the ST to the right of the CH 2:
puff ST
*Working to the left as normal: SK 1 ST
HDC in the next ST
Working back into the SKD ST: puff ST*
Repeat * around
SL ST to the first HDC (15 puffs)
Round 16:
Turn and CH 1
HDC in each ST around (30)
Round 17:
CH 1
SC 3rd loop in the same ST and every ST around
SL ST to join (30)
Round 18:
CH 1
HDC in every ST around (30)
Continue with the cuff option of your choice
Faux fur cuff
Cut yarn and attach the fur yarn.
*CH 1
HDC in every ST around (30)*
Repeat * 2 more rounds, for a total of 3 rounds. At the end of round 3; SL ST to join. Fasten off and weave in any remaining ends.
Ribbed yarn cuff
CH 13
Row 1:
SC in 2nd from hook and across (12)
SS in the next 2 STS on the stocking.
Turn. Do not CH 1.
Row 2:
SC in the first ST
SCBLO in the next 10 STS
SC in the last ST (12)
Turn and CH 1
Row 3:
SC in the first ST
SCBLO in the next 10 STS
SC in the last ST (12)
SL ST to the next 2 STS on the stocking
Turn. Do not CH 1
Repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around the stocking. When you get back to the beginning, SL ST the two sides together (12).
Fasten off and weave in any remaining ends.
Fold the rim of the stocking down so the seam is hidden inside the stocking trim.
Continue with the hanging loop if you wish to hang the stocking
HANGING LOOP
If you wish to add a loop to hang your stocking: use the heel side of the stocking and find the middle of the cuff. Re-attach yarn and CH 9, fasten off leaving a 3” tail. Use the tail to sew the CH to the stockings cuff to create a loop.
Copyright: All Sheepish Stitches patterns and their contents are copyright property of Sheepish Stitches. Any redistribution or reproduction of part or all of the contents in ANY form is prohibited. You may not copy, change, alter, or distribute any parts of Sheepish Stitches patterns to claim as your own design. Photos and written instructions are the sole property of Sheepish Stitches. Follow Sheepish Stitches on Instagram to stay up to date and be sure to use #SheepishStitches or #SheepishStitchesCrochet so I can see all of your lovely makes!
This post may contain affiliate links, meaning Sheepish Stiches may receive a small commission from purchases at no extra cost to you.
Learn how to make this novelty can koozie by following this simple, free crochet pattern by Sheepish Stitches. The perfect pattern for gift giving, bridal parties, or just some traditional summer time fun!
A few years back I stumbled across a photo of some super cute bikini top can koozies and I shared them to my Facebook friends, recently the photo resurfaced in my Facebook memories notifications, I thought these koozies were so fun and perfect for summer time so I re-shared the photo for my Facebook friends to enjoy again. Upon sharing I had people reach out to me for the finished products and I was excited to get started on these fun little novelty koozies!
Being the photo was a few years old and had no water mark, I had no idea who had created the photo I was looking at. I set out to locate a pattern I liked but I wasn’t finding ‘the right one’, so I turned to social media to make a call for help! I posted the photo I had from several years back to my Instagram stories and asked if by chance anyone happened to know whose pattern the photo was designed from…
Unfortunately, no one had an answer to this photo. I had one response of “I don’t know that pattern. But I’ve made some of my own. I’ve never written my pattern down. I guess I should”. And another responder sent me a photo for a ‘hula top’ pattern design. Neither were the responses I had been hoping for. With that being said, I took it upon myself to design my own pattern to look just as I had wanted it, and to fulfill my open orders!
Once I completed several of these cute little koozies, I was proud to share my completed work for others to enjoy as much as I did! Upon posting I was surprised at how many people were enjoying MY design and asking if I would be releasing the pattern…I didn’t really have intentions of releasing this design, as I just whipped them up quickly to fulfill my own orders….
Due to the response this koozie had created, I started to dig further into “Boob Can Cozies” and looking at dates of creation to see what I could find and based on what I had found, someone made a boob can cozy as far back as 2010. Again, this information is based on what I found in a quick search….This is not me saying this designer was the absolute first to create this pattern!
The 2010 maker no longer offers her pattern and while mine is different from hers… I decided I would reach out to her and explain my situation and ask her if she would mind if I would share MY design to all of you asking for it, while crediting her for the 2010 make of a “Boob Can Cozy”. She was super nice to chat with and she was completely fine with me going forward and giving you all the pattern to what I did. She went on to say, “I made it a free pattern, it would be nice if it remained that way.” So thanks to Keesha, I am bringing all of you a free pattern for this super cute boob can koozie!
Secure all the ends currently inside of the boob at this point.
Round 4-5:
SC in each ST around (18)
Fasted off leaving a long tail to sew onto the koozie.
Using nipple color:
Leaving about a 3” tail – CH 3
SL ST to the back bump on the first CH to form a ring
Fasted off leaving about 3” and use both ends to secure to the nipple color area
Bikini (make two)
Round 1:
MC
9 SC
Round 2:
(2 SC, 3 SC in the SAME ST) x 3
Round 3:
3 SC, 3 SC in the SAME ST
(4 SC, 3 SC in the SAME ST) x 2
1 SC
Round 4:
4 SC, 2 SC in the SAME ST
(6 SC, 2 SC in the SAME ST) x 2
7 SC this should take you to the corner of the bikini top.
Fasten off and weave in ends
Cut a piece of cotton about 20” long and two pieces about 12” long. Using the 20” piece and a tapestry needle; weave the cotton through the bottom round of stitches on the BACK side of the bikini top – do this for both triangles of the top.
Using the 12” pieces; secure to the top point of the triangle with a knot and weave in the excess end – do this for both of the triangles.
You’ve now created the bikini top. We will use the excess ends to secure the top to the can koozie.
Assembly
Place your koozie on a can and line up the back seam (where we slip stitched) with the back of the soda can tab.
On the front side of the koozie – place your boobs and check they appear how you like and then sew them onto the koozie. I place mine so that the top of the boob sits one row down from the top of the koozie and directed next to each other without much gap between. When sewing them on, I sew only through the top side of the stitches and NOT through the entire can koozie. In doing it this way, the inside of the koozie stays neat and free of seeing all the stitches on the inside. Before fully sewing the boob closed, adequately stuff and shape the boob to your liking. I use the back end of the crochet hook to stuff them a bit more as I near the end of closing the boob.
Situate the bikini over the boobs. Using a tapestry needle; weave the bikini bottom in below the boob and back out two stitches over. Wrap the cotton around to the back of the can koozie and weave the strand in two stitches before the middle, and back out by the middle. Using the leftover ends, tie in a bow and snip off excess if needed. You will repeat this method to secure the top straps of the bikini to the koozie.
Copyright: All Sheepish Stitches patterns and their contents are copyright property of Sheepish Stitches. Any redistribution or reproduction of part or all of the contents in ANY form is prohibited. You may not copy, change, alter, or distribute any parts of Sheepish Stitches patterns to claim as your own design. Photos and written instructions are the sole property of Sheepish Stitches.
Follow Sheepish Stitches on Instagram to stay up to date and be sure to use #SheepishStitches or #SheepishStitchesCrochet so I can see all of your awesome makes!
Welcome to Sheepish Stitches Blog! 