Almost daily I see makers asking for quick patterns or patterns that require little to no sewing and make great market prep items, so I have compiled a list of patterns that work up quickly and/or are “no sew”, making them great for market prepping!
Cora the whale is approximately 5” tall, worked in the round with NO sewing, and works up quickly using super bulky weight yarn (specific yarn used is linked in the pattern). She is perfect for last minute gifts and market prepping and looks adorable in any color!
Make your very own ocean full of sweet Baby Sharks with this simple and quick, no-sew crochet pattern. This pattern works up well in many different types and sizes of yarns, simply adjust your hook and safety eye size to match your yarn size.
Create your own little ray in just an hour or two! This easy-to-follow pattern includes one PDF file with detailed instructions and pictures on how to crochet and assemble all the parts to make this manta (or eagle) ray!
Gno-Sew Gnomeo is a plush gnome that is constructed all in one piece, the only pieces you’ll need to attach are the beard and decorations you choose to personalize your own gnomes!
Tank is sure to be your next favorite pocket pet. He is the perfect size for little hands, quick make and seriously NO sew! Only one tail to weave in at the very end.
These plush bees work up super quickly and the only sewing required is the wings.
Of course, there are tons of awesome quick/no sew patterns available, but these are a few I have compiled so far, I hope you found a few that you enjoy!
Super bulky weight yarn – main color, stripe color, wing color
25mm safety eyes or 1” felt eyes
Polyfil
Yarn needle
Scissors
Stitch marker
Notes/Tips:
I do not offer video tutorials. If you are unfamiliar with a particular stitch in the pattern, You-Tube is a great resource to find stitch tutorials.
Finished bee is approximately 5” round.
Your tension and choice in yarn can change your final size.
Numbers in ( )’s are stitch counts and the total number of rounds needed for the round being worked.
When working the MC – it can be tricky to pull the tail end tight. I suggest crocheting loosely and only working 4-5 STS into the MC and starting to pull the tail tighter and working your remaining STS, then pull the tail snug as needed. Don’t forget to weave in the tail to secure.
When stuffing your bees, you’ll want to shape them at the same time to achieve the round “ball” shape.
When working decrease stitches; I always use an “invisible” decrease. I recommend the invisible decrease method for a cleaner finished look. If you are unfamiliar, there are great tutorials on you-tube to learn.
You will work in continuous rounds for a seamless product, and may want to mark the first ST of each round with a ST marker.
I do not cut off my yarn when changing colors. Once both sections for the stripes are complete, I tie the beginning and end tails together.
Let’s get started!
BODY
Round 1:
MAIN COLOR
MC
9 SC
Round 2:
INC x 9 (18)
Round 3:
(SC, INC) x 9 (27)
Round 4:
(2 SC, INC) x 9 (36)
Round 5: SC in each ST around (36)
Note: if you are using safety eyes insert your eyes between round 3-4 or 4-5 with 8-9 STS between, this is all based on your own preference! Before placing eyes, make sure your beginning ST is centered at the top or bottom of the bee so that your color changes will be hidden by the wings or be the bottom of your bee.
Round 6-7:
Switch to stripe color
SC in each ST around (36)
Round 8-9:
Switch to body color
SC in each ST around (36)
Round 10-11:
Switch to stripe color
SC in each ST around (36)
Round 12-13:
Switch to body color
SC in each ST around (36)
Cut off stripe color yarn and tie the tail ends together to secure.
Round 14:
(2 SC, DEC) x 9 (27)
Round 15:
(SC, DEC) x 9 (18)
Round 16:
DEC x 9 (9)
Leave a few inch tail and fasten off. Use the tail to weave through the remaining 9 STS and cinch closed, secure the tail and hide inside.
WINGS
Round 1:
MC
6 SC
Round 2:
INC x 6 (12)
Round 3:
(HDC, HDC INC) x 6 (18)
Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off. If you haven’t already, weave in the beginning tail from the start of the MC. Using the long tail end sew each wing to the bee body; I like to sew my wings where the strip color changes are, this will help to hide the color jog a bit. This is all based on preference and you can position the color changes to the bottom of the bee if you wish.
If you’re using felt eyes, make sure to use your wings as a center point and glue them onto your bee in the position you best like, by placing the eyes further apart or closer together you can change the bee’s expression – making each bee unique!
I can’t wait to see all of your adorable bees!! Please be sure to tag me in your finished photos, I love seeing what you all create 🥰
Learn how to make the ‘Mini Winter Braid Stocking’ using Sheepish Stitches’ crochet pattern!
Learn how to make this adorable mini Christmas stocking by following this simple, free crochet pattern by Sheepish Stitches. The perfect pattern for gift giving or adding to your holiday decor!
Every year I see makers stressing that they haven’t started their Christmas gifts/makes yet and the “deadline” is approaching. To help with the maker stress, I’m releasing this adorable Mini Winter Braid Stocking crochet pattern with plenty of time to get a jump on this holiday season!
These stockings are adorable in a variety of colors and they work up SO quickly, making them great for gift giving too! Think about the hard to shop for person on your list, a secret Santa exchange, or if you need a few easy co-worker gifts! Add a gift card for a cup of coffee, their favorite dinner, or a store you know they love to shop. These mini stockings would also be great with some thoughtful tasty treats like hard candies or some chocolates.
You can also download the PDF’s for my full size version of the Winter Braid Stocking as well as this mini size at SheepishStitches.com. You will find the PDF files have more photos for step by step visuals on parts you may need to see along with the written directions.
You will work in the round until told to join. This keeps from having a seam in the toe to make the stocking reversible.
You will not turn the stocking after rounds unless told to turn.
CH 2 beginning the puff rounds will count as a HDC
Be sure to read directions carefully. If it doesn’t say to CH after a stitch – DO NOT chain!
Be sure to work the very first ST where the CH comes out of as well as the very last stitch right next to the CH. If your stitch counts come up short be sure to check you have worked ALL stitches.
Weave in ends as you work, this way you won’t have to turn your stocking inside out at the end of the project.
You will find two different cuff options at the end of the pattern, choose one method you wish to complete the stocking!
Faux fur trim: use a ST marker and make sure to count your fur stitches in each round – keep 30! Otherwise your stocking top may push outward or inward from the miscount.
Puff ST – *yarn over, insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop*. Repeat * two more times. Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on the hook.SC 3 tog – insert hook into the first stitch and pull up a loop, insert hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop, insert hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on the hook. You’ve now made 3 stitches into 1.
Round 1:
Make a magic circle
10 HDC into circle (10)
Round 2:
HDC INC in each ST around (20)
Round 3:
[HDC, INC] x 10 (30)
Round 4:
HDC in each ST around
SL ST to join (30)
** at this point my stocking measures about 3.25” across **
Round 5:
CH 1
SC 3rd loop in the same ST and every ST around
SL ST to join (30)
Round 6:
CH 2
Working in the ST to the right of the CH 2:
puff ST
*Working to the left as normal: SK 1 ST
HDC in the next ST
Working back into the SKD ST: puff ST*
Repeat * around
SL ST to the first HDC (15 puffs)
Round 7:
Turn and CH 2
Working in the ST to the right of the CH 2:
puff ST
*Working to the left as normal: SK 1 ST
HDC in the next ST
Working back into the SKD ST: puff ST*
Repeat * around
SL ST to the first HDC (15 puffs)
Round 8:
Turn and CH 1
HDC in each ST around (30)
Round 9:
CH 1
SC 3rd loop in the same ST and every ST around
SL ST to join (30)
HEEL:
Row 1:
CH 1
HDC in the same ST and the next 9 STS (10)
Row 2:
Turn your work and CH 1
HDC DEC
6 HDC
HDC DEC (8)
Row 3:
Turn and CH 1
HDC DEC
4 HDC
HDC DEC (6)
Row 4:
Turn and CH 1
HDC INC
4 HDC
HDC INC (8)
Row 5:
Turn and CH 1
HDC INC
6 HDC
HDC INC (10)
CLOSING THE HEEL
Fold the top portion of the heel back and down over the bottom portion of the heel – so the right sides of the work are facing each other on the inside.
Place your hook on your working side of the project and pull the loop from the other side of the heel through. CH 1 and SC the side of the heel together; making sure to go through both portions of the heel, so it’s closed. I used 3 SC across this side. Tie off.
Attach your yarn into the top corner of the second side of your heel, right by the fold. And SC from the fold down toward the stocking to close this side of the heel. Using 3 SC on this side as well.
Keeping your yarn attached; unfold the heel so the right side is now facing out.
Make sure the toe of your stocking is pointing to the right and you’re ready to continue working in the correct direction to continue round 10:
Round 10:
SC in the next 8 STS
Now you’re near the end of the heel, you will have to create spaces but you will now SC 3 tog to bring the heel together (As shown in photo )
*SK the next ST and HDC into the next
Working back into the SKD ST: puff ST*
Repeat * 9 more times
SC 3 tog to close the heel
SL ST to join (30)
Round 11:
Turn and CH 2
Working in the ST to the right of the CH 2:
puff ST
*Working to the left as normal: SK 1 ST
HDC in the next ST
Working back into the SKD ST: puff ST*
Repeat * around
SL ST to the first HDC (15 puffs)
Round 12:
Turn and CH 1
HDC in each ST around (30)
Round 13:
CH 1
SC 3rd loop in the same ST and every ST around
SL ST to join (30)
Round 14:
CH 2
Working in the ST to the right of the CH 2:
puff ST
*Working to the left as normal: SK 1 ST
HDC in the next ST
Working back into the SKD ST: puff ST*
Repeat * around
SL ST to the first HDC (15 puffs)
Round 15:
Turn and CH 2
Working in the ST to the right of the CH 2:
puff ST
*Working to the left as normal: SK 1 ST
HDC in the next ST
Working back into the SKD ST: puff ST*
Repeat * around
SL ST to the first HDC (15 puffs)
Round 16:
Turn and CH 1
HDC in each ST around (30)
Round 17:
CH 1
SC 3rd loop in the same ST and every ST around
SL ST to join (30)
Round 18:
CH 1
HDC in every ST around (30)
Continue with the cuff option of your choice
Faux fur cuff
Cut yarn and attach the fur yarn.
*CH 1
HDC in every ST around (30)*
Repeat * 2 more rounds, for a total of 3 rounds. At the end of round 3; SL ST to join. Fasten off and weave in any remaining ends.
Ribbed yarn cuff
CH 13
Row 1:
SC in 2nd from hook and across (12)
SS in the next 2 STS on the stocking.
Turn. Do not CH 1.
Row 2:
SC in the first ST
SCBLO in the next 10 STS
SC in the last ST (12)
Turn and CH 1
Row 3:
SC in the first ST
SCBLO in the next 10 STS
SC in the last ST (12)
SL ST to the next 2 STS on the stocking
Turn. Do not CH 1
Repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around the stocking. When you get back to the beginning, SL ST the two sides together (12).
Fasten off and weave in any remaining ends.
Fold the rim of the stocking down so the seam is hidden inside the stocking trim.
Continue with the hanging loop if you wish to hang the stocking
HANGING LOOP
If you wish to add a loop to hang your stocking: use the heel side of the stocking and find the middle of the cuff. Re-attach yarn and CH 9, fasten off leaving a 3” tail. Use the tail to sew the CH to the stockings cuff to create a loop.
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Learn more on testing your tension prior to starting a crochet (or knit) project to help ensure the correct final size of the finished project.
Let’s talk about ‘gauge’ or ‘testing your tension’ and why it is important in crochet. I’m often asked “what is the gauge part of the pattern?” or “ where do I start the project?” When I first taught myself to crochet I had no idea what gauge was or that such a thing even existed. Simply put: gauge is a measurement of your tension.
Gauge is especially important when making things to meet specific sizes, such as garments or hats. Have you ever made a whole project just to find in the end it didn’t fit, or didn’t turn out the size the designer outlined in the pattern? When you crochet (or knit) you can tell that your work will turn out to the size the designer has specified, by testing your tension prior to starting a project.
You can measure gauge in width (stitches) and height (rows), or as a pattern or stitch repeat based on how the designer has laid out the gauge swatch portion of the pattern. When crocheting patterns designed by Sheepish Stitches, you will find if I provided a swatch, I place the swatch instructions as the first thing when starting the project. My patterns have been designed this way so as a maker, the pattern flows in order of how it should be followed.
You may find that different designers have different preferences of what their swatch may entail. Personally, my swatches general are not a part of the final project. The swatch will have instructions to complete a square to measure 4” x 4” and I personally prefer when swatches are counted by whole stitches (ie 12 STS by 5 rows VS 10.5 STS by 3.5 rows) but I understand halves happen. Again; different designers, different preferences.
You can easily measure your swatch with a tape measure or if your prefer a “swatch ruler” you will find your local craft store may carry them as well as online retailers. Either way, you will get the job done to ensure the size of your finished project.
So how does gauge influence the size of your work? The designer has determined the measurements of the project based on their own gauge. Some makers crochet tight while others may crochet loosely. Meaning, if the designer made a project where 10 stitches measure 4” and your work measures 14 stitches per 4” – your crochet piece will be smaller. This is because your stitches are tighter or smaller. Therefore, if you stick to the stitch counts and hook size specified, your finished project will end up smaller then the listed measurements of the pattern.
Gauge also influences the yardage of yarn needed. If your gauge is off, there’s a chance that you’re using a different amount of yarn than the designer listed in the materials, especially if you have to compensate for a size issue by making extra stitches. If you’re working from a yarn kit, this could mean you run out of yarn before your project is complete, and we definitely do not want that!
As I stated above, gauge isn’t crucial for every project. Some patterns may even state ‘gauge is not critical for this project‘. Things like dish cloths, doilies and amigurumi’s may not be crucial for a swatch unless you really want a specific finished size.
If you have any helpful gauge swatching ‘tips or tricks’ please feel free to share with the community! Happy hooking!
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