Chunky Bee pattern

My chunky bee was inspired by the “Tik Tok Bee” from Hooked By Robin! My chunky bee works up super fast, but If you’d prefer a worsted weight bee and have a bit more time, absolutely check out Robin’s bee here:


MC – Magic Circle 

ST(S) – Stitch(es)

SC – Single Crochet

HDC – Half Double Crochet

INC – Increase 

DEC – Decrease


7mm hook

Super bulky weight yarn – main color, stripe color, wing color

25mm safety eyes or 1” felt eyes


Yarn needle


Stitch marker


  • I do not offer video tutorials. If you are unfamiliar with a particular stitch in the pattern, You-Tube is a great resource to find stitch tutorials.
  • Finished bee is approximately 5” round.
  • Your tension and choice in yarn can change your final size.
  • Numbers in ( )’s are stitch counts and the total number of rounds needed for the round being worked.
  • When working the MC – it can be tricky to pull the tail end tight. I suggest crocheting loosely and only working 4-5 STS into the MC and starting to pull the tail tighter and working your remaining STS, then pull the tail snug as needed. Don’t forget to weave in the tail to secure.
  • When stuffing your bees, you’ll want to shape them at the same time to achieve the round “ball” shape.
  • When working decrease stitches; I always use an “invisible” decrease. I recommend the invisible decrease method for a cleaner finished look. If you are unfamiliar, there are great tutorials on you-tube to learn.
  • You will work in continuous rounds for a seamless product, and may want to mark the first ST of each round with a ST marker.
  • I do not cut off my yarn when changing colors. Once both sections for the stripes are complete, I tie the beginning and end tails together.

Let’s get started!


Round 1:



9 SC

Round 2:

INC x 9 (18)

Round 3:

(SC, INC) x 9 (27)

Round 4:

(2 SC, INC) x 9 (36)

Round 5:
SC in each ST around (36)

Note: if you are using safety eyes insert your eyes between round 3-4 or 4-5 with 8-9 STS between, this is all based on your own preference! Before placing eyes, make sure your beginning ST is centered at the top or bottom of the bee so that your color changes will be hidden by the wings or be the bottom of your bee.

Round 6-7:

Switch to stripe color

SC in each ST around (36)

Round 8-9:

Switch to body color

SC in each ST around (36)

Round 10-11:

Switch to stripe color

SC in each ST around (36)

Round 12-13:

Switch to body color

SC in each ST around (36)

Cut off stripe color yarn and tie the tail ends together to secure.

Round 14:

(2 SC, DEC) x 9 (27)

Round 15:

(SC, DEC) x 9 (18)

Round 16:

DEC x 9 (9)

Leave a few inch tail and fasten off. Use the tail to weave through the remaining 9 STS and cinch closed, secure the tail and hide inside.


Round 1:


6 SC

Round 2:

INC x 6 (12)

Round 3:

(HDC, HDC INC) x 6 (18)

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off. If you haven’t already, weave in the beginning tail from the start of the MC.
Using the long tail end sew each wing to the bee body; I like to sew my wings where the strip color changes are, this will help to hide the color jog a bit. This is all based on preference and you can position the color changes to the bottom of the bee if you wish.

If you’re using felt eyes, make sure to use your wings as a center point and glue them onto your bee in the position you best like, by placing the eyes further apart or closer together you can change the bee’s expression – making each bee unique!

I can’t wait to see all of your adorable bees!! Please be sure to tag me in your finished photos, I love seeing what you all create 🥰

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Crochet Gauge

Learn more on testing your tension prior to starting a crochet (or knit) project to help ensure the correct final size of the finished project.

Let’s talk about ‘gauge’ or ‘testing your tension’ and why it is important in crochet. I’m often asked “what is the gauge part of the pattern?” or “ where do I start the project?” When I first taught myself to crochet I had no idea what gauge was or that such a thing even existed. Simply put: gauge is a measurement of your tension.

Gauge is especially important when making things to meet specific sizes, such as garments or hats. Have you ever made a whole project just to find in the end it didn’t fit, or didn’t turn out the size the designer outlined in the pattern? When you crochet (or knit) you can tell that your work will turn out to the size the designer has specified, by testing your tension prior to starting a project.

You can measure gauge in width (stitches) and height (rows), or as a pattern or stitch repeat based on how the designer has laid out the gauge swatch portion of the pattern. When crocheting patterns designed by Sheepish Stitches, you will find if I provided a swatch, I place the swatch instructions as the first thing when starting the project. My patterns have been designed this way so as a maker, the pattern flows in order of how it should be followed.

You may find that different designers have different preferences of what their swatch may entail. Personally, my swatches general are not a part of the final project. The swatch will have instructions to complete a square to measure 4” x 4” and I personally prefer when swatches are counted by whole stitches (ie 12 STS by 5 rows VS 10.5 STS by 3.5 rows) but I understand halves happen. Again; different designers, different preferences.

You can easily measure your swatch with a tape measure or if your prefer a “swatch ruler” you will find your local craft store may carry them as well as online retailers. Either way, you will get the job done to ensure the size of your finished project.

So how does gauge influence the size of your work? The designer has determined the measurements of the project based on their own gauge. Some makers crochet tight while others may crochet loosely. Meaning, if the designer made a project where 10 stitches measure 4” and your work measures 14 stitches per 4” – your crochet piece will be smaller. This is because your stitches are tighter or smaller. Therefore, if you stick to the stitch counts and hook size specified, your finished project will end up smaller then the listed measurements of the pattern.

Gauge also influences the yardage of yarn needed. If your gauge is off, there’s a chance that you’re using a different amount of yarn than the designer listed in the materials, especially if you have to compensate for a size issue by making extra stitches. If you’re working from a yarn kit, this could mean you run out of yarn before your project is complete, and we definitely do not want that!

As I stated above, gauge isn’t crucial for every project. Some patterns may even state ‘gauge is not critical for this project‘. Things like dish cloths, doilies and amigurumi’s may not be crucial for a swatch unless you really want a specific finished size.

If you have any helpful gauge swatching ‘tips or tricks’ please feel free to share with the community! Happy hooking!

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